I hiked 130 miles through the American Southwest. Here are 10 hidden gems and must-see spots I visit

Publish date: 2024-07-18
2022-10-08T11:40:00Z

This summer, my husband and I spent 19 days touring the American Southwest in a rented Kia K5.

My husband Trent and I took a 19-day trip through the American Southwest. Timothy Moore

Our adventures spanned 4,000 miles and took us through five states, 14 national parks, and a handful of state parks. In total, we hiked 130 miles.

We saw some of the country's most iconic sites, from the Grand Canyon in Arizona to Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado.

But in our quest for challenging hikes and smaller crowds, we also came across several hidden gems and must-see spots.

Near High Dune, there was a mile-long, shaded hike to the stunning Zapata Falls.

After going to High Dune, we explored Zapata Falls nearby. Timothy Moore

Our hike to High Dune, a very popular sand dune in southern Colorado's Great Sand Dunes National Park, was epic, but it was also brutal.

After a tough morning spent climbing massive dunes under the desert sun, we drove 15 minutes from the base of the dunes to a less crowded, shaded hike outside of the park called Zapata Falls Trail.

It was roughly a mile out and back and led to a 25-foot waterfall inside of a cave.

Pack your waterproof hiking boots because you'll have to slosh through an ankle-deep stream to get to the base of the falls, which was tucked inside the rocky crevasse.

The falls flowed in full force when we visited in June, but they freeze over in the winter.

We watched thousands of bats fly out of Carlsbad Caverns to hunt for prey.

Trent and I hiked down the caverns so that we could look at all of the rock formations. Timothy Moore

Travelers have the option to take an elevator 755 feet down to New Mexico's Carlsbad Caverns, which has over 120 caves. However, we thought the hike through rock formations, like stalactites and stalagmites, was worth the workout.

The real magic happened at night during the ranger-led Bat Flight Program at the mouth of the cavern. The ranger said that if we were lucky, we might see a few Brazilian free-tailed bats come out to feed.

Shortly after explaining that he'd only spotted 11 bats the night before, thousands of the animals spilled out of the cavern to hunt for moths, their favorite treat.

If you plan on visiting Carlsbad Caverns, be aware that the Bat Flight Program is only offered in the summer, and photography isn't permitted.

The Kanab Sand Caves were an easy stop on our way to Zion National Park.

We stopped at the Kanab Sand Caves when we drove from Arizona to Utah. Timothy Moore

Keep an eye out for the Kanab Sand Caves after crossing the border from Arizona into Utah on your way to Zion National Park.

When we typed the sand caves into Google Maps, the directions led us to the interstate right in front of the caves, but the hike actually started in a poorly marked parking lot about 1/2 a mile back.

Most visitors chugged onward toward Zion, but we enjoyed a crowd-free hike to these human-made sand caves, which are byproducts of sand mining. We had to scramble up boulders to reach the caves, which were about 100 feet tall.

We accidentally passed them at first and had to double back, so pay attention as you hike.

Bryce Canyon National Park offered us an obstructed view of the stars.

Bryce Canyon had little light pollution and was a great place to stargaze. Timothy Moore

Bryce Canyon National Park was impossible to miss during the daytime.

Hoodoos sprung from the ground like skyscrapers, but the tall, thin rock formations were a little older than the Empire State Building — the hoodoos first appeared around 50 million years ago.

As dramatic as Bryce was by day, it truly came alive at night. The park is an International Dark Sky location, meaning it has some of the darkest skies in the country. When we were there, there was little light pollution blocking the stars.

Drive in before dusk, head up to Rainbow Point for the view, and find a vacant pull-off along the way. Then, look up and enjoy the stars.

Capitol Reef wasn't the most popular national park in Utah, but it was still worth visiting.

Capitol Reef had impressive landscapes and was less crowded than many of Utah's other national parks. Timothy Moore

Of Utah's "Mighty Five National Parks" — Arches, Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, and Zion — Capitol Reef is one of the least visited, and that's a shame.

The national park has dramatic landscapes, thrilling trails, and, in some seasons, fresh fruit.

Capitol Reef had a 7 1/2-mile, out-and-back hike along Cassidy Arch Trail, named after the Western figure Butch Cassidy.

Park at the Grand Wash trailhead and hike within the wash for a couple of miles before hopping onto the trail. To shorten the hike, you can cut out most of the wash by parking near the base of the Cassidy Arch Trail instead.

Grabbing a cold beer at Zion Brewery was the ideal way to cap off a full day of hiking.

We arrived at Zion National Park early to hike Angels Landing. Timothy Moore

Zion National Park was amazing, but it was hardly a hidden gem. After a long day of hiking in the sun, I was ecstatic to find a local brewery just outside the park.

Each afternoon, we headed to Zion Brewery, ordered a tasty beer, and sat outside on the shaded patio to enjoy the joint's misting fans, live music, and cornhole.

Devils Garden Loop felt vacant compared to Delicate Arch in Arches National Park.

We escaped the crowds at Devils Garden Loop in Arches National Park. Timothy Moore

Arches National Park implemented a timed entry system to keep crowds at bay. Even so, swarms of people still got into the background of our photos at Delicate Arch, a famous 52-foot rock formation.

To get a more private experience, we hiked the Devils Garden Loop and saw eight arches in just as many miles.

The first 2 miles were packed with people, but almost everyone turned around at Landscape Arch. We kept going, scaled rock formations, and stumbled upon arches that we had all to ourselves.

One portion of the trail, called the Primitive Trail, was poorly marked and challenging to follow, but we hardly saw anyone for miles.

The steep cliffs at Black Canyon of the Gunnison were unlike anything else we saw on our trip.

The terrain at Black Canyon of the Gunnison was a change from the other destinations we visited. Timothy Moore

By the time we reached Colorado's Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, we'd seen nothing but red rocks and desert sand for two weeks. The black canyon walls and lush greenery below the rim were a welcome change.

Black Canyon had worthwhile hiking trails, but like the Grand Canyon, this park also rewarded visitors with breathtaking views from the pull-offs along the road.

The best part was that Black Canyon was close to Colorado's wine country, so travelers could head north to a nearby vineyard after a long day of hiking.

Our visit to Sky Pond brought a taste of winter to our summertime getaway.

There was snow and ice on our hike to Sky Pond this summer. Timothy Moore

Rocky Mountain National Park's Bear Lake Road was so busy that it had its own timed entry system that was separate from the rest of the park.

Most visitors parked at the Bear Lake lot and spent time a few hundred feet from their cars at Bear Lake. But there was so much more magic waiting in the mountains.

From Bear Lake, we hiked roughly 9 1/2 miles out and back to an alpine lake called Sky Pond. Even in June, we encountered snow and had to climb the half-frozen Timberline Falls to access the lake. 

The mountain water was clear, ice-cold, and undisturbed, save for the few hungry marmots already fattening up for winter.

To get back down the steep, snow-covered inclines, we plopped down on our rears and slid down trenches that were cut into the snow banks. For this adventure, hiking boots and poles were a must.

We found superb Italian food in Denver, and it was a wonderful break from protein bars and canned foods.

Trent and I stopped in Denver, Colorado, during our trip. Shutterstock

In Denver, we stayed at a charming bed and breakfast called Capitol Hill Mansion. The owner's daughter told us that a family-run restaurant called Odyssey serves her favorite Italian food in the city.

So, we went. The food was rich, the atmosphere was as relaxed as the Italian countryside, and our server treated us to a surprise cannoli and round of limoncello.

The Italian meal was the perfect way to round out a trip that was otherwise filled with protein bars and motel breakfasts.

Overall, I'm glad we went to the famous sites and took the time to explore less-touristed places as well.

Trent and I hope to return to the Southwest in the future. Timothy Moore

Many of the country's national parks are filled to the brim with visitors for good reason, but don't let the crowds deter you from experiencing these natural wonders.

With a little research and exploration, travelers can balance the most popular sites with off-the-beaten-path destinations that are far away from other tourists.

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